garage climbing wall
To check out this project and some other really cool projects, I don\'t have the time to mechanically turn to instructures to visit my website.
Of course, each garage is different, so my design may not be able to be completely copied, but would like to show how I copied it, which will show all the basic concepts behind building the walls, and let you know if you choose to do this about this big business.
The total cost of the project is less than $400 (
Including holding, so it\'s about $220 if you hold it yourself)
It is worth investing in.
The added benefit is that the wall has a door that can be opened, so it can be doubled as an extra storage space. (
Or if you don\'t need storage but have kids (
Or you\'re a kid yourself)
You can use the inside as a great fortress).
It really depends on your imagination.
However, without further permission, we will delve into the details of the design and construction of the climbing wall.
This is the part where you sit down and decide what you want from the rock climbing wall and combine this with what you have the ability to do based on space constraints, cost, ability, etc.
After brainstorming, I put together a list of what I needed my wall to have :-
A 45-degree suspension of the main climbing area for strength and endurance training. -
The 90-degree suspension of ultra-high-intensity training is small. -
Starting at 90 degrees and leading at 25, I can get on the Jacobs Ladder for finger strength training --A pull up bar-
Access the content and list I want to have :-
Just vertical walls for fun
Variable angle part-
I also have a budget of $500 which I don\'t want to exceed.
You take all the requirements and then do the next design, put all of them together and make the best wall that meets as many constraints as possible. This step is exciting where it started.
Play your imagination to the fullest.
I have experienced many different ideas.
While this is not necessary at all if you can use 3d design software, it does help you visualize your design.
It is also convenient to calculate the length of wood later (
It\'s a triangle for you).
Make sketches and think about many different designs.
Then choose the best things in each design and try to combine them to make the best design possible.
I measured my garage and noticed that I had a rear corner 12\'x 8\' that I could use \'.
Be sure to remember the size of the space when designing.
It would be terrible to design a Great Wall and realize that it is not suitable for your space.
I made a lot of changes to my design.
Also pay attention to the materials you will use to build your wall.
If, like me, you are using 3/4 plywood, you want to avoid bending as much as possible, and complex angles make construction very difficult.
With this in mind, I decided to give up the raised and variable angle sections of the wall.
Just remember to be as simple as possible while meeting your requirements.
Each external feature of the wall is supported by an internal frame.
So, in the case of still meeting all the design requirements, trying to keep it on a large square surface is the easiest way.
In the end, I decided on the basic design below.
The next step is to figure out the structure of the frame and how the wall will connect to the wall.
Pay attention to building materials when designing the frame and developing the final size.
I used 4x8 feet plywood so I designed a wall 12 feet wide (
3 plywood sheets)
And separate the bolts accordingly (
There are 4 studs nails for each piece of plywood, and the pieces that come into contact with the plywood share a stud nail)
Doing so helps prevent waste of wood.
Can you imagine having to buy one more plywood?
$30 a piece! )
Because you made the wall 1 feet too wide, you cut it a small piece.
Thinking ahead can save a lot of time and headaches.
After a while, I came to the frame design shown in the last photo.
I didn\'t design the door to enter the wall at this point, but I knew it would be on the vertical wall above the 90 degree suspension.
With this pallet model I can well estimate how much wood I need.
All this can be done on paper, I just don\'t want to do math.
As you can see in my design, basically all the ends of the board are screwed to the 2x4 at the top.
Then Bolt it through the ceiling to fix it on the beam.
I am not satisfied with this, I am a huge fan of over-engineering, so I cut the drywall from the ceiling and added support directly from the stud to the ceiling support beam.
The way the climbing frame is attached to the external plywood \"skin\" is that there are fasteners called \"no\"
Nuts attached to the other side of the plywood.
Basically, the bolt is attached as a stand to the other side of the plywood.
They bite the wood so you can fix the bracket to the wall with pliers instead of using pliers on the other side to fix the bolts.
They have an outer diameter of 7/16 and I arrange them on my plywood to form a grid of 8 \"x 8\" giving me 72 t-in total-
Nuts for each piece of plywood.
If you buy them in a physical store, they are very expensive (
35 cents a piece)
But if you get off
Their prices are relatively cheap.
Mine is 9 cents a piece.
I ended up getting about 500 or so and I had a lot of extra stuff.
Mine took over a week to deliver, so if you commit to making a wall now, it\'s a good time to order them.
At this point, you will have a good plan for what you are going to do.
So now you need to go get your supplies and start building. I usedTools-Circular Saw-Protractor-Tape Measure-Jigsaw-
Drill holes with Phillips Head Drive, T-7/16 bit
Nuts, drill bits that match my lugs nut and lag bolt-Hammer-Chalk line-Socket wrench-Pliers-Work light-square-levelWood10 -
2 \"x 6\" x 12 \"pine boards ~ 33-
2 sheets \"x 4\" x 8\' loose boards5 sheets-
4\' x 8\' x 3/4 \"Pine ply wood building supplies-
5 lb 2 \"deck screws connecting plywood to the wall-535 t-nuts-
2 lbs. 3 1/2 \"galvanized nails-
2 lb 4 1/2 \"galvanized nail-
1 pound 4 \"deck screws-
All kinds of washers
2 Heavy hingeabout 25 -
1/2x5 \"lag bolt-about 25 -
Hex bolts-1/2x4bolt hangers (
For sport rock climbing)-
Aluminum bars (
Strengthen the pull bar)
I will not give an exhaustive explanation of my entire build process --
Depending on the design of your wall and where you decide to place it, it will change a lot.
There is no basic knowledge of architecture, such a project should not be tried.
There are, however, some important things.
First of all, any load bearing should be bolted
There is no screw or nail.
In the picture you can see that the 2x6 pallet is attached to the 2x4 and there is a bolt through the top of the 2x4 into the 2x6, then 2x4 is bolted to the ceiling.
With vibration, the nails are loose and the screws are easy to break.
There are bolts for any load bearing. No exceptions. (
Of course, the plywood is screwed on the frame, but what I\'m talking about is when building the frame)
After the frame was built, it was time to prepare the plywood to be attached to the wall.
General rules of T-
The nut for each plywood is 72.
This means that there is a rectangular pattern of t-
Each 8 inch nuts in two directions.
I mark plywood with chalk lines and then drill holes where the two lines intersect.
Here\'s more information about the process. (
The holding price of Morganic is very good, I bought some of my holding prices from them)
You drill for t-
The NUT is drilled out of the side so that no debris is seen.
I found it easiest to make a piece of paper at a time. Drill holes2. Flip over3.
Set aside time to do the next one.
You don\'t want t-
Because you might cut plywood, not just t-
The nut destroys the saw blade, but there is no need to waste t-
Nuts on plywood scrap that will not be used.
You may use a part that has been drilled as a drilling template.
The next step is to install plywood when installing plywood, which will take at least two people.
The sheets are at least 20 points Heavy each and it\'s embarrassing to pick them up.
If the plywood must be cut, make sure to measure it 5 times and cut it once.
Nothing is worse than losing $30 (
Tons of drilling and hammering t-nuts)
Because you rushed too short.
I asked someone to fix the plywood for me, put two \"deck screws in the four corners, then put a few in the middle, and then my assistant could let go.
The rule of thumb I use is 1 screw for every 8 inch screws.
This is enough.
For parts that need to be cut into a special shape, I measured the length and angle very carefully before cutting.
After cutting, I will be at t-
Then twist the nut to the frame.
I left the door. \"no-
\"Because I don\'t have the design of the door yet.
I need a door strong enough to climb up.
Finally, I use a small latch at the bottom to hinge the door from the top and keep the door closed.
The next step is to install the bracket!
Hopefully you \'ve got it already, or at least ordered some at this point.
Setting routing is an art form and I will not be in this structure (another day).
There is no fixed way to do this, it changes from a wall to another, but the best way to break a new wall (in my opinion)
Is the bracket evenly distributed on the wall, and then begins to tilt, moving a bracket at a time to complete certain movements into the wall, etc.
Mess it up until you get tired of it and change them.
The Hold configuration is basically endless.
If you manage to run out of hold configuration, you can always buy more hold or make it yourself!
This will make another great construct.
I also installed belay point at this point.
To protect my little brother, I fixed the 3 bolt hanger to the ceiling support beam on the wall and helped teach people to protect.
As for the lifting rod.
I \'ve installed it at this point, but basically it\'s just a square frame made of 2x4 that is bolted to the ceiling beam.
At this point you like your wall!
Take some art climbing photos no matter what you want to do! (
You can see some homes.
This is another wooden stand with complete self-guidance.
This is a very satisfying project if you really enjoy climbing and will take advantage of the family climbing wall.
It\'s a bit difficult, but anyone with basic woodworking skills and a little bit of math can design and build it on their own.
One thing I learned is that while the walls in the vertical part have been interesting for a while, they are really quite useless in training (At least for me)
In fact, most of my brackets are on the protruding part of the wall and I use the vertical bit as a handy tool holder.
The key is to make sure you consider all the components of the wall before building it and make sure it meets all your requirements.
You want it to be a wall that you have fun with, not a wall that you say \"If I only build (blank)
\"I forgot to mention that you also need to buy something to cushion your fall which will be perfect, I have carpet padding, 2 mattresses and actually some rolled up carpets.
The carpet roll is dense but better than falling onto concrete.
If you have some tricky movesFeet above the head)
Make sure you always use the observer because your neck is waiting to be broken like a toothpick, what\'s the point of climbing the wall if you break your neck?
So make sure you use a location!
My Instructure is just to inspire people and give examples of what is relatively easy to do.
I did not publish it to copy (
You can if you like)
But let your imagination go out and design.
If you are going to do this, let it be your own and learn something (or somethings)while doing it.
Have fun and be safe! (
Don\'t break your neck! )