：
Latest products
inflatable boat floorboard & seat
by：KK INFLATABLE
2020-06-21
Uncle Tony is moving and he has an old Coast Guard inflatable boat that he no longer wants, so he asks if I want it --OF COURSE I DO! ! !
LOLSo it wasn\'t ideal when I first tried the boat in the water-
The floors don\'t swell, I think the boats are designed for the floor system I don\'t have, which makes the boat unstable and will fold a bit in itself.
In order to be able to use the ship, I think, it needs to install some sort of floor and start building a floor and document my process so that others can do the same.
Materials used in this project: 1 piece of \"waste\" plywood measuring 36 \"x96\" 1 piece of geotextile for backing 1 piece of indoor/outdoor carpet (
* Bought 7 yards and used half of this project)
3 pieces 3/4 \"x 6\" pipe insulation 1 bag 7 \"zipper tie belt (40 pcs)
1 piece of 2 \"x 2\" x 8\' Pine8 carriage bolts (1/4\"x3\" )
Washers2 brass door hinge with gasket and lock (For Seat Lid)
3 m Super 77 spray glue 1 can-
Screw, Brad nail, glue. BONUS -
The link provided for 3D printed parts in attachment part I measures the length and width of the inner seam of the bottom of the boat.
For the rough size, I started the measurement from the previous step and put my mark on the plywood.
Then get the size of the corners of the back and the bow, I just measured the floor from the corner to the end in both directions and put these marks on the plywood, then cut out two halves with a jigsaw puzzle.
Then I polished all the corners and edges with the Palm Sander.
Tip: measure cutting once twice and remember to use all the right safety equipment to protect yourself from damage.
I use the geotextile as the backing for the floor as I have some available and it is usually used underground so I think it will work fine if it gets quite wet.
I cut off the rough shape of the floor for two and a half, first using 3 m spray glue on the plywood, applying a thick uniform coating and then gently spraying on the fabric.
Let it sit for a minute or less so that the adhesive becomes tacky.
I then smooth the fabric from the center to the outside with the lid of the spray pot to avoid any wrinkles.
Once the adhesive has been stuck together for a while, I use scissors to trim the excess fabric.
As with the previous steps, for the carpet, I cut half of the floor into a rough size.
I put the carpet on the floor and with the same spray, first, spray the heavier spray on the plywood, spray a small amount on the carpet, then use the lid of the spray pot to smooth out from the center again.
Again, once the carpet sticks together, I trim off the excess carpet with a pair of scissors and a box knife.
I use the 3/4 foam tube insulation as a pad on the edge of the board so that it does not rub the inflatable wall to prevent any tear or puncture.
I first place the pipe insulation material on the edge of the plywood and drill holes on the wood with a spacing of about 6 inch (
The accuracy here is not very important)
Tie the zipper strap through the hole and bypass the pipe insulation, then tighten as much as possible.
Note: I learned a hard way, when you are ready to put it on the floor, you should only remove the yellow adhesive backing on the insulation of the pipe, I had to tear it off a bit because it would stick to myself.
When I got to the bow of the boat, I had to cut it in the foam and bypass the steep curve --
So I made a diagonal cut with a tool knife and it fits well.
Since the pieces of plywood are two pieces, I think I need to support the floor to enhance the strength and minimize the movement of the floor in the water.
I cut it in half with a piece of 2 \"x 2\" pine tree in length of 4 feet.
First I painted the wood to prevent premature decay and then I took the floor off the ship to make the work easier.
I measured the best position.
Far enough to prevent it from rubbing against the wall, but also separate enough to get a seat or even a cooler; )
Between them and mark the hole I\'m going to drill for the Bolt.
To drill, I start with a bit with a smaller diameter, and then go to the 3/16 bit, leaving enough wiggle space for the 1/4 Bolt.
I want to sit down with a folding chair, but the more I want to paddle or use a rotary motor, it would be awkward, so my solution is to make a box seat with storage for the rotating motor battery.
I use the rest of the plywood to form the side and seat of the bench and use some trays to form the front and back of the box.
Since the plywood is not big enough, I use a piece of pallet wood to connect them with the glue and Brad nail.
Then I cut the pallet wood to a certain length and then connect a pallet wood corner with the glue and Brad nail.
I attach the front/back of the tray to the side of the plywood to form an L-
Shape with clips, glue and brad nails.
And then I added two L-
Pieced together in the same way with clips, glue and brad nails. I drilled a 2-
There are 1/4 holes on the back of the box that allow any future motor wires to enter the battery storage area.
For a couple of reasons, I didn\'t intentionally put a bottom in the box --a)
Weight saving, B)
I don\'t think it is necessary because of the carpet on the floor.
I first attached the brass hinge to the back of the outside of the box, then to the lower side of the lid and marked the holes, holes and added screws.
They are a bit long, so I cut them off and grind them down with a rotating tool.
The carpet left on the land board, I also covered the box with it.
I started the biggest rug in the center and ran around the corner instead of putting the edge of the carpet in the corner of the box, which I thought would make it easier to peel off.
I did use some staples to help keep the carpet safe and I was a little worried about the staples around the inflatable boat, but I\'m sure the Staples won\'t damage the boat.
After finishing my back, I cut the carpet in the hole of \"x\" and trim off the excess.
I would like to add some items to make it easier and more fun to use this ship! So I added tie-
Front and back supports and rope splints for connecting small anchors.
I also wanted to clean the holes in the wire seat so I added a 3D printed Grommet with a lid and it was a really nice little part --
Thanks to the designer, download the file here-
The last accessory, a 3D printed fishing rod holder attached to the top of the seat, can be disassembled for transportation.
Thanks again to the designer, download here-
The floor and seating are finished and it\'s time to go to the pond.
In order to install it, I inflate the boat section, then insert the bolts into the floor section, then put them on the boat, then I put down the white support railing, tighten the nuts, and inflate the boat.
Then all you have to do is put your seat down, push it down in the pond and throw a line.
If you have built this project, please vote for me in the \"water\" contest and have a good time.
Thank you, Uncle Tony! !
LOLSo it wasn\'t ideal when I first tried the boat in the water-
The floors don\'t swell, I think the boats are designed for the floor system I don\'t have, which makes the boat unstable and will fold a bit in itself.
In order to be able to use the ship, I think, it needs to install some sort of floor and start building a floor and document my process so that others can do the same.
Materials used in this project: 1 piece of \"waste\" plywood measuring 36 \"x96\" 1 piece of geotextile for backing 1 piece of indoor/outdoor carpet (
* Bought 7 yards and used half of this project)
3 pieces 3/4 \"x 6\" pipe insulation 1 bag 7 \"zipper tie belt (40 pcs)
1 piece of 2 \"x 2\" x 8\' Pine8 carriage bolts (1/4\"x3\" )
Washers2 brass door hinge with gasket and lock (For Seat Lid)
3 m Super 77 spray glue 1 can-
Screw, Brad nail, glue. BONUS -
The link provided for 3D printed parts in attachment part I measures the length and width of the inner seam of the bottom of the boat.
For the rough size, I started the measurement from the previous step and put my mark on the plywood.
Then get the size of the corners of the back and the bow, I just measured the floor from the corner to the end in both directions and put these marks on the plywood, then cut out two halves with a jigsaw puzzle.
Then I polished all the corners and edges with the Palm Sander.
Tip: measure cutting once twice and remember to use all the right safety equipment to protect yourself from damage.
I use the geotextile as the backing for the floor as I have some available and it is usually used underground so I think it will work fine if it gets quite wet.
I cut off the rough shape of the floor for two and a half, first using 3 m spray glue on the plywood, applying a thick uniform coating and then gently spraying on the fabric.
Let it sit for a minute or less so that the adhesive becomes tacky.
I then smooth the fabric from the center to the outside with the lid of the spray pot to avoid any wrinkles.
Once the adhesive has been stuck together for a while, I use scissors to trim the excess fabric.
As with the previous steps, for the carpet, I cut half of the floor into a rough size.
I put the carpet on the floor and with the same spray, first, spray the heavier spray on the plywood, spray a small amount on the carpet, then use the lid of the spray pot to smooth out from the center again.
Again, once the carpet sticks together, I trim off the excess carpet with a pair of scissors and a box knife.
I use the 3/4 foam tube insulation as a pad on the edge of the board so that it does not rub the inflatable wall to prevent any tear or puncture.
I first place the pipe insulation material on the edge of the plywood and drill holes on the wood with a spacing of about 6 inch (
The accuracy here is not very important)
Tie the zipper strap through the hole and bypass the pipe insulation, then tighten as much as possible.
Note: I learned a hard way, when you are ready to put it on the floor, you should only remove the yellow adhesive backing on the insulation of the pipe, I had to tear it off a bit because it would stick to myself.
When I got to the bow of the boat, I had to cut it in the foam and bypass the steep curve --
So I made a diagonal cut with a tool knife and it fits well.
Since the pieces of plywood are two pieces, I think I need to support the floor to enhance the strength and minimize the movement of the floor in the water.
I cut it in half with a piece of 2 \"x 2\" pine tree in length of 4 feet.
First I painted the wood to prevent premature decay and then I took the floor off the ship to make the work easier.
I measured the best position.
Far enough to prevent it from rubbing against the wall, but also separate enough to get a seat or even a cooler; )
Between them and mark the hole I\'m going to drill for the Bolt.
To drill, I start with a bit with a smaller diameter, and then go to the 3/16 bit, leaving enough wiggle space for the 1/4 Bolt.
I want to sit down with a folding chair, but the more I want to paddle or use a rotary motor, it would be awkward, so my solution is to make a box seat with storage for the rotating motor battery.
I use the rest of the plywood to form the side and seat of the bench and use some trays to form the front and back of the box.
Since the plywood is not big enough, I use a piece of pallet wood to connect them with the glue and Brad nail.
Then I cut the pallet wood to a certain length and then connect a pallet wood corner with the glue and Brad nail.
I attach the front/back of the tray to the side of the plywood to form an L-
Shape with clips, glue and brad nails.
And then I added two L-
Pieced together in the same way with clips, glue and brad nails. I drilled a 2-
There are 1/4 holes on the back of the box that allow any future motor wires to enter the battery storage area.
For a couple of reasons, I didn\'t intentionally put a bottom in the box --a)
Weight saving, B)
I don\'t think it is necessary because of the carpet on the floor.
I first attached the brass hinge to the back of the outside of the box, then to the lower side of the lid and marked the holes, holes and added screws.
They are a bit long, so I cut them off and grind them down with a rotating tool.
The carpet left on the land board, I also covered the box with it.
I started the biggest rug in the center and ran around the corner instead of putting the edge of the carpet in the corner of the box, which I thought would make it easier to peel off.
I did use some staples to help keep the carpet safe and I was a little worried about the staples around the inflatable boat, but I\'m sure the Staples won\'t damage the boat.
After finishing my back, I cut the carpet in the hole of \"x\" and trim off the excess.
I would like to add some items to make it easier and more fun to use this ship! So I added tie-
Front and back supports and rope splints for connecting small anchors.
I also wanted to clean the holes in the wire seat so I added a 3D printed Grommet with a lid and it was a really nice little part --
Thanks to the designer, download the file here-
The last accessory, a 3D printed fishing rod holder attached to the top of the seat, can be disassembled for transportation.
Thanks again to the designer, download here-
The floor and seating are finished and it\'s time to go to the pond.
In order to install it, I inflate the boat section, then insert the bolts into the floor section, then put them on the boat, then I put down the white support railing, tighten the nuts, and inflate the boat.
Then all you have to do is put your seat down, push it down in the pond and throw a line.
If you have built this project, please vote for me in the \"water\" contest and have a good time.
Thank you, Uncle Tony! !
Custom message
