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lady anglerfish mask/helmet

by:KK INFLATABLE      2020-06-08
I like to make clothes. I fine-
Laernmoer adjusted the instructions.
Thank you for your ideas and many technologies!
Supplies for the body :-
Large inflatable punching bag for balloons.
You take off the big rubber band that\'s tied.
I found a pack of 4 16-
It cost $3 in the balloon in the dollar store. -
Corrugated Board.
There is a wave structure inside for stability. -Masking tape-Florist\'s wire.
Found in the fake flower aisle of the craft shop. -Hot glue gun-Scissors-
A pair of big scissors and a small pair of scissors, I also found a curved pair of scissors, useful for roll paper :-
Paper torn along the grain into 1-12in strips.
Don\'t let them grow longer than 8 minutes, otherwise they will become difficult to use and will wrinkle up. -
A stronger piece of paper, torn like a newspaper.
I found a large roll of brown kraft paper for $3/roll. -
Paper paste.
There are a lot of ways to do this, but I mix it with 1c flour and 1c cold water and add 1-
1/2c boiling water, 1/4c Elmer glue and 1 tbs salt help prevent mold. -
Cheap toilet paper used to make March Clay, about 1/3 rolls.
\"The thinner the toilet paper, the better. -
Jagged steak knife and drywall saw for paper cutting
Sandpaper, used to smooth the paper.
Once dry, it acts like a drywall. For decoration :-paint-
I used an outdoor acrylic with a brush and a sponge roller-LEDs-
I found a string of 30 red LEDs on Amazon for about $7 and for dangerous things I used an LED and added long wires --
For the sake of vision, table tennis will blow the balloon up and imagine putting your head inside.
Big Enough?
Good because you will want to wear something and make a sexy Ms angerfish.
Start planning your design now.
I found the nipples-
The place where the rubber bands are connected is very useful for finding the center of the balloon.
I know roughly where I can put my mouth, eyes, fins, tail, and airy hideaway.
No one likes the mask on the back of the sweat stream maskface.
After doing this, I left for a few days and by the time I came back, the red balloons were already deflated.
Luckily I had 3 more so I saved it as a reference and blew one more and then got to mache-ing.
This is the most chaotic one so far.
The consumption part of the project.
It took me about a week to stack up the paper.
Put a bunch of newspapers in your work area and wear old clothes. Drips happen.
Mix up your paper.
This is the recipe I have used but can try different recipes.
1c flour1c room temperature water 1/4 °c Elmers glue1.
5c boiling water 1tbs salt * stir flour with room temperature water first, then add salt and glue.
Then stir in boiling water.
If you boil water or glue first, your paper paste will form a mass.
Let it cool before use.
You can put things in the fridge-
3 days between application layer.
I can only do one layer per day and have to mix a few batches.
* I started with a stronger layer of kraft paper.
Dip the notes into the paste and let them sit for a minute until they look saturated, then squeeze out the excess paste with your fingers.
To stabilize, lay down the layer in the opposite direction.
You can clean up the excess sticky matter with a brush.
I used a big pot to hold a balloon while I was working.
I found that I had to cover all the parts except the parts in the jar, let it dry a little bit, turn it around and finish the layer.
Make sure the paper is completely dry between two layers.
The residual water between the layer and the layer will breed mold.
When I was working on the first Kraft floor, I used the newspaper to make a layer.
After that, I alternate until I have 7 Layers, done with a layer of kraft paper, because it is smoother than newspaper.
Once the last layer is dry, for the sake of safety, I use my fingertips to apply some pressure to the structure to identify weaknesses and then add a layer to the structure.
Fans help dry!
What needs to be considered is: Since you are using a balloon full of air, a drop in temperature will cause the air in the balloon to shrink and paper walls will begin to collapse!
When I put the fish in front of the cool window, I found it difficult, but I could let the air swell again by moving her back to the warm room (
Kitchen with oven).
Therefore, I suggest that your baby keep the same temperature when drying.
Another thing to consider: even if you make each layer completely dry before doing another layer, adding a new layer will make the dry layer below wet again.
So even if the top layer looks dry, the bottom layer may still contain some moisture, moisture = mold.
You can\'t cut it if the bottom layer is still wet.
I finished the machete on the body and went on to the next step so it could dry for a few days.
Poor male ang fish: it\'s time to get to know nature!
The mask you make is a big scary * Female * anglerfish.
The male ang fish is much smaller.
When males mate with female ang fish, the male bites the female and releases an enzyme to dissolve his face and merge into her body, until he is basically just a pair of men who need sperm at any time.
We will make our poor male ang fish with tin paper.
Continue to knead your foil until it looks like a sad little manfish.
Then cover him with paper paste
I put some wires on him to make a hook so I can hang him up and dry it because his shape is weird.
Obviously, this man.
Fish is optional, but too much fun to skip.
For tails and fins: Imagine that you built animals from the inside out.
Start with a sharp bone.
Decide how long you want them to stay and cut the wires of your florist accordingly.
Wrap the wire with approximately 3 layers of masking tape and leave a small tail of the extended wire.
Then wrap each spike on a layer of paper.
For the bottom of the tail, dorsal fin and thoracic fin, first cut a piece of cardboard into the size and shape you want.
Make two cardboard shapes like this.
Once your bones are dry, use adhesive tape, glue or plug them into one side of the corrugated board.
You can bend them into the shape you like.
Tape the other side.
To get the extra structure, you can add tape in the middle of the bone.
To add size to the tail, I gently bend the two pieces of cardboard so that they can form a curved shape.
I stuffed some newspapers in it to help keep this shape.
Then I stuck the glue gun in the space between the bones and injected it with glue to keep it stable.
Add skin: So far we have the \"skeleton\" section of the fins.
Cover them with a mesh skin, please place your structure on the plastic wrap or parchment.
He won\'t stick to it.
Tear a solid piece of paper much larger than the fins you cover.
Soak it thoroughly in the paper paste.
When it is soaked, brush some glue or paper paste on the bones with your brush.
Squeeze out excess liquid from the paper and gently place it on the bone and cardboard base.
Start with the leftmost bone and gently shape the paper around the bone with your fingers.
At the top of the bone, press the paper down at the tip, then pinch it and fold it up.
This will increase the length of the top and make sure it is good and sharp when dry.
Do this for all bones from left to right.
Eliminate Wrinkles-
The brush is a great tool for making paper sticks that can lie smoothly on the bones.
Once the first side is completely dry, flip the whole thing over and do the same on the other side.
When it dries, you can trim your fins and tail into whatever shape you like.
To highlight the spikes, I made them fan-shaped.
Great little scissors!
Gently archive any jagged edges using sandpaper.
I also drew some glue on the tip to make them stronger.
Teeth: I use the method of making fin bones to make teeth --
Flower wire wrapped with tape, wrapped with roll paper.
Make extra teeth of different sizes so you can decide what looks best.
Once dry, you can use sandpaper to remove any wrinkles and dry scraps of paper.
Then I painted them with warm white outdoor acrylic paint.
It gave them a beautiful shiny look, not too smooth and uniform.
Shout out: I took these methods from Dan Reeder, who made an incredible paper mache dragon with wings that looked exactly like the fins I wanted.
Fabric for Dan (old bed sheets)
I make his wings out of paper because it weighs a lot less than the wings he usually makes.
Look at him and buy his book on Amazon!
First, open the balloon!
The end of the tie should be stretched out, so grab it and poke it.
Grab it and let it breathe slowly
If it sticks to the inner wall of the structure, it may cause them to collapse.
You may release the balloon inside the body, but after you cut the hole, you can take it out.
I went through the building with a drywall saw and an old steak knife.
At the beginning, hit an \"X\" at the place you started until your knife can be punctured.
It\'s helpful that someone helps her stabilize when you cut it to make sure you don\'t break the paper.
To cut the curved hole, keep the knife or saw at a certain angle when cutting.
Sandpaper is very effective for smooth edges and fine handling
Adjust the shape.
Start with the hole your head is going to go in and figure out where the mouth is going.
Keep in mind that the more you cut, the more you weaken the structure, so from an early age, gradually grow bigger where you need it.
Only cut the holes in the head as large as possible to get your head in.
First stick the teeth to the fish mouth with hot glue.
It does not have to be straight, uniform or completely spaced.
The rougher they are, the more terrible they look.
Hot glue is good because if you decide to change the position of the tooth, you can easily peel it off without causing too much damage to the body or teeth of the fish.
One of the benefits of the way we build our teeth is that they always maintain a certain amount of elasticity, so even after you\'re done, you can continue to bend them into the shape you want.
Help stabilize the teeth and make the teeth look more natural, cut short and thin notes: about 1/2 wide, 2-3in long.
Saturate each tooth with a paste of paper, and then wrap it with a strap at the bottom of each tooth.
Wrap the tape around the inside of the tooth and then pass through the end of the front so that they overlap with the mouth.
Now you can stick your tail, fins and males to the fish.
They will make the whole structure more clumsy and difficult to move, and the teeth will become the first.
You will notice the gap between the imperfect arrangement of the cardboard fins and the body.
We will solve it.
You can cut fish, too.
This is optional, but it adds ventilation and the led will glow and it looks cool.
Cut them with your knife as before, and cross them several times with a tilted knife to make them wide.
You can smooth and form them with sandpaper.
First fill the gap between the fin and the body.
We are made of paper paste clay.
\"Mache Clay1/3 rolls of cheap toilet paper-
The thinner the better 1 bottle of normal white Elmer\'s large gluea bowl for mixing blendercolanderson cheese, take apart some of your toilet paper and place it in a bowl.
Cover it completely with water and let it sit down.
It gets very wet and starts to dissolve.
Pour a bowl of water and corn porridge into the blender and mix it in height until it looks evenly pastedlike.
Align the colander with the cheese cloth and slowly pour the mixture into it.
Squeeze as much water as possible and put the paper back into the bowl.
Add a little glue at a time until the mixture is like clay.
This will be very sculptural, and when you squeeze it with your fist, it will squeeze it out with your fingers like you play --Doh!
Fill the blank with this clay.
Just use what you need, push it between the fin and the body and smooth it with your fingers.
A small rubber spatula is also perfect for this.
Once dry, any stubborn lumps and bumps can be polished off.
Add details anywhere you like with clay.
Fish have no lips, but their teeth grow out of their gums.
I made clay worms and stuck them around my teeth.
I also used it to pile up around the fish gills, gave it a chin, a spine, and after cutting half the table tennis for the eyes, I also ate some there.
You can store the clay in the air.
Tight container in refrigerator if you need to save to later.
The deep sea ang fish has bio-glowing cells in its body, making it glow.
There is also a bait on its head, and there is a glowing thing at the end to attract prey.
I poked holes along the length of my body with my old steak knife and also under my eyes so they glow from inside.
With a sharp knife tip, press it gently and you twist it and it will eventually drill through.
Start small with holes-
You can always expand them if they are not big enough.
I used a bunch of 30 batteries.
Led, kind of like Christmas lights.
I drilled 28 holes along the spine of the fish and under each eye.
Each LED goes through a hole from the inside and the battery pack sticks inside.
Don\'t stick the lights inside!
They will make the whole thing more difficult and you will paint on them in the future.
The head of the Ang fish also has a projection to attract prey.
This is what \"angling\" is more often called glowy dangling.
For the glowing hanging things (Scientific terms)
What you need is: 12in pipes about 1/2 wide.
The wire rack is cut and pulled up to 12in long single led.
I found 10 on Amazon for about $10.
According to the seller, for some reason, one of these LEDs needs to be powered with a 9v battery.
They have connected seven long wires.
Scrap wire assembly: I need the wire on the LED to be long enough to go through the pipe to reach a battery pack and stick to it after painting.
I added more wires to the LEDs to make them longer.
I then connect these wires to the 9v card buckle
A switch is added to the connector so that it can be turned on and off.
I used a small cardboard jewelry box as a battery box.
I didn\'t have any previous manufacturing experience with electronics, so it made me feel like I was an electrical engineer.
Maybe there\'s a better way to build it, but I can\'t find any super long LEDs with battery packs, so I made one!
After painting the pipe, pass the LED through the pipe with the wire hanger.
The hanger allows you to bend the tube into the shape you want and make it stand upright.
Then I dug a small hole in table tennis so that it could be put at the end.
I learned how to do a lot for this project.
I have never used paper processing or playing with LED wiring before and I have not painted much.
This is also my first note!
If you are really good at drawing, share some pictures!
If you are not familiar with it like I am, here are some tips: drop down a ton of paper as it will be messy.
Very small batch mixed paint.
When mixing colors, start with a brighter color and add a darker color to it to avoid mixing more paint than you need.
Mix light colors for highlighted areas.
Mixing is tricky and some practices have been taken.
You can touch later with the highlighted color.
Paint the common fish first, then apply glue to the common fish before you.
The only paint color I bought was black, warm white and sterling silver.
I used outdoor acrylic because they protect the paste if the fish get wet (
I live in Buffalo, New York, and there is a great chance of rain or even snow on Halloween. )
I painted my fish in dark gray (
I mixed up the black silver)
The fin bones, fins and mouth have silver highlights.
I gently checked the whole thing with the silver on the sponge roller to get the texture.
I drew the rubber tube in the same way.
Note: It\'s hard to drill your knife through the paint cleanly, so leave a little unpainted on the head and touch it after you drill holes for the tubing.
Find out the most concise way to insert the string of lights into the back of the fish.
The battery pack became hot stuck inside the fish.
Be sure to glue the side that is not open so you can replace the battery when needed.
Glue the battery pack along the center line of the fish to maintain balance.
With something assembled (
Hooks and LED in pipes)
, Insert the tubing into the forehead hole, connect the battery box, and stick the battery box inside.
The tubing may turn over in all the weird places and won\'t stand up like you think.
Put it where you want it to stand, apply some hot glue around it and keep it in place until the glue is completely cooled.
It will exist independently.
The last problem I had was that when I put on the mask it fell forward so I had to lift it up to see.
It\'s also a bit on my shoulder.
I wear it and have a scarf around my neck, which solves the problem!
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